The Magic Crack

Aladdin's Buttress in Coire an t-Sneachda - showing The Magic Crack (HVS***) near the centre of the photo

On Tuesday, Ken and I drove over to the Cairngorms for a plan to enjoy this fantasitc dry and warm weather on the Magic Crack. It seems incredible that I was only a few days go wearing waterproof trousers, winter boots, packing 3 pairs of gloves, axes and crampons, and now, I'm packing in a smaller bag - rock shoes, t shirt and chalk bag! Let's make the most of it.

Ken on pitch 1

We were the first team on the climb today, although others had been on the climb in the last few days, by the evidence of a little chalk.

I'm on pitch 2

Pitch 2 was brilliant and a great taste of things to come.

Ken - pitch 2

A finger crack up a slab finishes with an awkward move to the top slab - all really well protected.

Ken on pitch 3

Pitch 3

Pitch 3

Pitch 3 was brilliant and much better than the great pitch 2! If it wasn't for the normal pitch 1, this would perhaps earn ****. The climbing on the last pitch was sustained 5a (top end 5a), exciting and well protected.

Remaining snow on Fiacaill Buttress

Loch Morlich in the sun

Hopefully this is the start of a long 2012 summer climbing season. All my winter kit is put away now and the UK rock guide books are out... Where next?